We had gotten up early that morning to walk the ramparts of
the wall that surrounds Jerusalem. The views from the top of the wall rampart were
spectacular as Jerusalem is built on the highest part of Mount Moriah where
Abraham had gone to sacrifice Isaac. You can’t walk the whole route on top of
the wall because the section at the temple mount is closed. The wall section
from Jaffa gate to Dung gate (including passage over the Zion gate) is plenty to
hike though as the multiple staircases makes it a pretty tough mile. If you are
afraid of heights, this is NOT the experience for you as the average height of
the wall is 40 feet. It’s a LONG WAY DOWN.
But the experience of it may call to you anyway because it
is perhaps the closest any of us will ever get to being at the very top of
Mount Moriah since access the Temple Mount itself is unlikely.
Let me clarify, unlikely but obviously not impossible.
“I think I’m going to the Temple Mount today.” Mom replied
to my question of what she was going to do while I was at the conference.
“Oh really?” I said in surprise, “How are you going to do
that, little North Dakota Lady?” I teased her gently because we had read plenty
of testimonials about how people couldn’t get in due to the scrutiny of the Israeli
soliders who were guarding the entrance. As the words were leaving my mouth I
just knew she could—and would—do it.
Turns out she had read some suggestions on how to get
through Israeli security to access the Temple Mount which is open to
non-Muslims through the Mughrabi Gate only for 2 hours each day (Muslims have
access at all times and have 10 gates to enter from). The key points were to
basically have no skin showing, wear a scarf to cover your hair, and have no
religious items on or with you at all. Non-Muslim prayer or religious items at
the Temple Mount aggravates the Muslims there to worship and has resulted in
several outbreaks of violence since the Israeli occupation of 1967.
It is strange to think that Israeli soldiers are there to
prevent their own people from worship on the Temple Mount and thereby protect
Muslim religious freedom. The Chief Rabbinate of Israel prefers to think of it
a different way, stating that the presence of Muslims and their worship of
Allah at the Temple Mount makes the area unclean and thus unfit for Jewish
worship of Yahweh. There’s actually a sign outside of the non-Muslim security
gate that says Jews are strictly forbidden to worship on the Temple Mount as
decreed by the Chief Rabbinate of Israel. With all of this in mind, Mom took a
book with her, anticipating that the security scrutiny by the Israeli soldiers would
last a long time before she could get in, even if she met all the requirements.
I found her hanging out in our hotel room after the day’s
conference was over.
“Well, did you get in?” I asked.
“Yes.” She replied.
“Get OUT!” I said excitedly.
“No, I got IN.” she replied, her eyes twinkling at her own
joke. “But boy, I almost didn’t get in, actually.”
The security checkpoint to enter the temple mount is quite
intimidating. There are Israeli soldiers in tactical gear carrying their big
rifles everywhere, and the bridge leading into the temple mount is suspended in
the air and is more like a narrow tunnel made out of dark lumber. Mom had been
careful to wear modest clothing with a head scarf and left her Bible and cross
necklace at the hotel room.
“NO GOOD, NO GOOD!!” The Israeli soldier who had been inspecting
her bag stepped back from it violently and pointed at her bag while shouting at
her. Other soldiers immediately tensed and Mom found herself at the scrutiny
now of a handful of well-armed Israeli soldiers.
She slowly and carefully picked up her bag to see what they
were all so angry about. Oh, yes. There was the offensive thing that had upset
them. A beautiful olive wooden cross that she had bought on her way to the
Temple Mount. Despite all of her careful research on how to manage it, she saw
that cross and bought it, completely forgetting that her next stop was The Mughrabi
gate and Israeli security to access the temple mount.
They ordered her to remove it and as there was no other place
to put it, she just set it on the ground around the corner. They ignored her
for about an hour after that, but she just stood there calmly and quietly
reading her book until they finally let her in.
“Mom. You could’ve been KILLED or at least ARRESTED. Or even
started a new revolt.” I was sitting on the bed now in disbelief and shock at
what had happened. How in the world could she forget she was heading to temple
mount security populated by a bunch of soldiers when she bought that cross and
stuck it in her hand bag? Well, she was safely here now in our room with an
awesome story to tell of her adventure. Then I gave her a sly smile.
“Did you get your cross back?”
“You bet. It was still lying on the ground after I left. I’m
sure no self-respecting Muslim or Jew would touch it.” There were those
twinkling eyes of hers again, and I swear I fell in love with my mom all over.
She let that nugget settle in for a minute, and then we were
laughing so hard, I thought I would fall off the bed! My little North Dakota
mom on her second trip out of the USA had been challenged by Israeli soldiers,
and lived to tell the tale.
I was not surprised though that the rest of her visit to the
temple mount was somewhat boring, as it would have been pretty hard to beat
those tense moments with the Israeli soldiers. Even the heavy Jordanian (Muslim)
guards patrolling the temple mount grounds were quite peaceful that day despite
a reputation for being rude and cranky with non-Muslims. But the real reason I
think the remainder of her visit to the temple mount was not a more moving
experience is because Mom didn’t need to go there to meet God as the Jews long
to do. She has met with God frequently in the quiet of her heart where He
dwells forever. She doesn’t need to be at a particular place to have
relationship with God.
I think shepherds in the time of Jesus’ birth understood
that. They could never enter the Temple Mount because they work with sheep and
are thus considered unclean. Instead, their relationship with Yahweh grew under
clear starry skies as they watched over sheep. But the angels who came to
proclaim The Good News of Jesus’ birth did not go to the temple in Jerusalem
where all of the clean Jews worshiped. No, they came first to proclaim The Good
News to the most unclean among the people—the shepherds. And wow, those
shepherds got front row seats to the most spectacular worshiping choir the
earth has ever seen! Because the JOY of The Good News of Christ Jesus is not to
be contained in one place among the clean. He came to save us all.
HE IS COMING. HALLELUJAH!!
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